Tuesday, 19 August 2014

Drowned

Honest eyes, pure heart
Kindness, kindness poured out of you

Honest lying eyes, pure black heart
Pain, pain poured out of you

I drowned both times


Monday, 18 August 2014

Cairo Eats the Soul

Slowly, torturously
Cairo Eats the Soul

All-Abrasive 
to eye, ear, smell, don't touch

Dust, exhaust, shouts, screams,
horns, harassment, tired pleas

Daily assaults, daily high-defences
Invasions of lung and temper

I ask for kindness. I ask for hope.
She ignores me, disappoints me
Continues her clamour

Hurtling towards her apparent goal:
Destruction of the Human Soul.



Saturday, 8 March 2014

To Suffer Love


1 Halah*
*not her real name

Halah is a fighter. The first detail I hear about her is that she’s on a hunger strike, living in a tent next to her car which was burnt out by Israeli settlers the week before. It is January in the West Bank and around 4 ̊C/39 ̊F. There has been almost constant rain and strong, freezing winds; there was even a severe hailstorm. She is one tough lady. At 56 years old, Halah is extremely overweight and walks with a cane. She has had two strokes in her right leg. One was a result of being beaten during an arrest and the second struck during the Gaza War:
‘We were watching the news and I was so affected by it. My leg is still bad even after I’ve been admitted to hospital and had operations. It was very critical. The stroke didn’t come to my brain but instead came to my leg. It was so blue.’
It is as if her mind couldn’t take the pain of so much suffering and so her body stood in its stead. How much suffering must you experience for your body to react like that?

My first sight of Halah is as she is climbing at least fifteen rocky steps to the dirt track she is forced to take to her house. I will never forget the sight of her; hijabed head bent double to make sure her feet hit each step as solidly as possible. I want to help her but am not able to – the steps not being wide enough for two of us. I’m also not sure whether she would be offended or not – whether it would be an insult to imply that she can’t do it on her own. She doesn’t see me until she’s at the top of the steps where she says a very tired, breathless and warm ‘salam wa alaikum’ (‘peace be upon you’). Her hijab is pulled tight over the sides of her face making it even rounder, accentuating her plump cheeks, rosy with the climb. I smile and reply ‘wa alaikum al’salam’ (‘and upon you be peace’) and kiss her on both cheeks as is the custom. She beams broadly at the kisses and looks through her small, darkened, rectangular glasses with smiling eyes into my own. ‘Kayfa halik’ (how are you?) she asks. ‘kullu tammam, hamdullilah’ (‘all is well, thanks be to God)’ I say as she starts walking slowly towards her house. ‘Hamdullilah’ she says softly as she begins to concentrate on walking. ‘Hamdullilah’ she says, as if to herself.

I follow Halah down the path, not wanting to overtake but also not feeling she is able to talk and walk at the same time – her breathing is now very laboured and audible, and she is leaning heavily on her cane for support – so I trail behind. Her uncertainty on her feet and her swollen ankles remind me of my grandmother though Halah is at least twenty years younger.

I wonder what I would do if my grandmother was forced to climb up and down those uneven steps whenever she needed to go to work or go shopping. I don’t think I would want her to leave the house but I couldn’t, and wouldn’t, want to force her not to. I wonder how much I would fight with the authorities to try and get permission for her to use the road and park by the house. I wonder how frustrated I would be with the years of trying and failing. Constant attempts, permission not granted. Constant attempts, permission granted and thwarted. She tells me later how difficult that walk is for her:

'The way is very difficult for me. I know I’m a heavy lady. I don’t have any illusions about that! There’s a steep hill going down to those stairs; about six metres. The steps that you came up are very weak, especially when it’s rainy and muddy. I could easily slip down those stairs. Because of my health issues it means that I can’t really leave the house. Ok, I have my nephews and brother living here but they don’t help with my expenses. No one helps me with my expenses.'

Only that day, the Israeli military had put cement blocks in front of a path which was Halah’s last chance of getting her car to her house. She had appealed to the Palestinian Authority (PA) who had granted permission for her to use, and make more sound, a wide dirt path from the main road to her house.  She is prohibited from using the tarmac road which leads to her house from the other side although the Israelis who live in the settlements along that road (some of which are on her land) are permitted. Despite the PA’s approval, the Israeli military closed the entrance of her last hope. Anyway, as she reminds me, the PA has no authority in this area – Area C.

But that is my beginning. There are so many other places we could start.... We could start with Halah’s father, Atif, now deceased, who built a home for his family in the 1940s. Who built it big enough to house the family he expected to have... the grandchildren who had not been born yet but for whom he was already planning a life. Little did he know the kind of life they could expect.

We could start with the arrival of ‘new Jews’ in the area who attacked those Palestinian Jews who refused to join their cause. Atif saved twenty such Palestinian Jews from the Jewish mob outside by sheltering them in his house. He and his wife Manal took their guns, climbed onto the roof and fired into the air. The mob ran away. Maybe Atif thought that was the end of it. Maybe he thought they were gone for good. When they returned with an army to defend themselves and started attacking his family, did he wish he killed them, then? Or did he still believe that not killing them was the right thing to do? – that violence begets violence; that his and his family’s lives are in God’s hands; He has a plan. As his daughter Halah seemed to assent to:

'[I]t’s not a life but if this is our fate, if this is what God’s chosen for us then I just hope that there is a reward, because this is not a life.'

By the time we reach Halah’s house, she is exhausted. As she lowers herself into a chair, she breathes deeply and heavily and closes her eyes, trying to recover. Recover. Re-cover. To cover herself again with an appearance of energy although she has none, with some semblance of socially acceptable behaviour. This in itself is a struggle for her: ‘I’m constantly frustrated, I can’t even be polite to people any more, I’m under so much pressure, I’m always wound up.’

She is exhausted, depressed and angry, and doesn’t have the energy to feign otherwise. The constant attacks on her family and property have, she feels, left her ‘mindless.’ I’m not sure how to interpret this but it is the over-riding feeling that she repeatedly relates to me. Does she mean that she feels numb? I cannot believe that this is her meaning – when speaking about her experiences with settlers, she speaks in an extremely animated and angry tone. She cares. She feels. Her voice strains and cracks with anger.

Mind-less. Without a mind. Maybe she means without her mind. Without having control over her thoughts or feelings. I go back to what she said earlier:

'Other people as part of life think: ‘what kind of dress shall I buy? What kind of shoes shall I buy?’ Believe it or not, we don’t even think of that, all we think of is ‘when is the road going to open for me to get to work?’, ‘If I leave the house, will I be allowed back in?’ ‘When can I leave the house, when can I get back?’ ‘What time do I have to be back?’ That’s all I ever think about, I don’t think about buying anything new or going anywhere, that’s all I ever think about. It’s not even a life’

She seems to be suffering from too many emotions and thoughts. I imagine the constant worry and stress of not knowing whether you are able to get to work, to make a wage that day or week or month. Then even if you can, I imagine being at work not knowing if you can get home or not. Will the soldiers let me pass this time or will they keep me waiting for three hours? Will they arrest me and keep me at the police station until midnight? Will settlers attack me with eggs and water or with stones; will I come back to my house to find my windows broken, my trees burnt or a member of my family injured (all of these have happened to Halah on numerous occasions). The constant worry and stress could indeed lead someone to say they feel ‘mindless’.

We sit on her veranda, surrounded by lemon and orange trees which have recovered since their branches were cut off by settlers some years ago. Being forced to park her car so far from her house not only means that Halah has to walk the long, treacherous journey to her house...often with bags of shopping...and can’t bring heavy gas canisters up....and can’t get her rubbish collected...and can’t get to an ambulance... and means she has to leave her car parked very far from her house where she can’t protect it. Six of her family’s cars have been burned ...completely burnt out, the glass melted, the seats ashes...she suspects that the settlers use an accelerator. The sixth car was burned only days before I got there; its shell was still sitting about 50 yards from the bottom of the rocky stairs. The sixth was too much for Halah. She lost herself:

'When I heard about my last car being burnt, I couldn’t contain myself, I couldn’t control myself. I still feel until now that there are moments when I just lose it when I can’t control myself, I can’t control what I’m saying. There are moments when I do question if I’m actually crazy.'

This pressure from all sides, Halah finds ‘suffocating’.  She tells me that Israel ‘manipulates all aspects of life – marriage, food, my daughter’s marriage, the children’s marriage, social, political, economical  – every single detail in our lives has been worked on by Israel.’ Even, I am astonished and disgusted to discover, her own marriage.

Unlike most Palestinian women, Halah doesn’t have a husband to rely on for either income or emotional support. This is extremely unusual for a Palestinian woman and comes with a large amount of social stigma. I ask her what happened:

'The man that I was married to – my ex-husband - only married me because he had an arrangement with the Israelis to try and get me out of my house. I was only married to him for 48 days because I found out, left him and came back. I left him when I was pregnant with my daughter; she doesn’t know anything about him. There are other things but I can’t say them in front of the children.' (her nephews and nieces were in the room at this point).

To have shared your bed, body and hopes with only one man. To have that man be the father of your only child.  And for him to be aiding those who throw large rocks at the ambulance carrying your mother, causing her to die at home without treatment. For him to be on the side of those who broke your nephew’s leg when he was fourteen by throwing stones at him, of those who burn your cars, cut down your trees, shoot through your windows, steal your land, ban you from driving to your house, ban you from leaving your house,[2] from tending your land, from going to university.[3]

But who are ‘those’? Who are these people whose hatred is so visceral that they brutally abuse their neighbours? Are they happy? Are they scared? Do they think that at any moment, Halah and her family will shoot them? Explode them? Do they think that their and Halah’s precariousness is a zero sum game? If Halah’s family’s lives become less precarious, theirs will become more?

Will they be happy if they get Halah’s house? If they get the whole West Bank? Will their hatred dissipate or will it find a new target? Are there some individuals among them who don’t hate? Who don’t want to throw and burn and beat but who feel they must or they themselves will be turned upon? Will they ever voice their dissent? Will they ever show Halah’s family that there are Israeli settlers who just want to be neighbours?

Who were these people who came to a foreign land to claim it as their own? Did they believe they were coming to save the Jews from the Arab barbarians after the massacre of 1929[4]? Michael Feige describes how the massacre (known to the settlers as ‘Tarpat’) was the driving force behind the first settler movement to come to Hebron. Much of the settler community sees itself as a continuation of the old Jewish community, which was massacred and largely driven out.  According to Feige, Zeev Hever, who plays a central role in the propagation of the Jewish settler community in Hebron, describes what he deems to be the three most essential duties of the Jews in Hebron:

'[E]rasing the shame of the Hurban (destruction, another term laden with exilic connotations) of Tarpat, reversing the failure of the former community to return to Hebron and re-establishing the continuity of life in Hebron. All these are different ways of making the same point, that the new community replaces the old one. It inherits its history and has its score to settle.'[5]  

Halah and her family are paying the price for acts committed by certain Palestinians more than eighty years ago. The settlers seem to have dehumanised the entire Palestinian population, blaming them all for the acts of a few. To respond to such tragic violence with yet more hateful violence only perpetuates the cycle of revenge and turns some of those dehumanised enemies into the very thing the new settlers fear – hostile neighbours who will kill their Jewish neighbours the first chance they get. Instead, perhaps what the settlers need is to mourn their loss.

Mourning allows us to deal with the pain of loss in a way that does not seek revenge but looks for understanding.[6] Understanding of myself, of you, and of how we are connected. Connected through our common human vulnerability; through our impacts on the precariousness of each others lives.

Israeli settlers in Hebron are well aware of the precariousness of their lives; emphasized by the army that is there to guard them and the parts of Hebron they feel they cannot go to without dozens of soldiers to protect them. Reminded of the danger of others and the precariousness of their forebears’ lives by the narrative of the Tarpat. But precariousness does not have to be a zero sum game. A decrease in your vulnerability does not have to mean an increase in mine. Your gain does not have to be my loss. Do I really become less vulnerable by making you more so? Or do I in fact become more vulnerable to the possibility of your revenge?

We are all implicated in the vulnerability and precariousness of others’ lives in many ways, including how we decide to tell our narratives, as well as how we read or hear others’ experiences.

When we hear a person recounting an experience, the extent to which I relate to ‘them’ and their story depends not only on the way that the story is told but also upon my own subjective instincts. We have, all of us, been conditioned into notions of ‘us’ and ‘them’ and into ideas of what characteristics make up these categorisations. But this is a conditioning and does not mean that we necessarily have more in common with those we deem one of ‘us’ as opposed to one of ‘them’. I may have a more similar sense of humour to a Maori than my next-door neighbour; I may have more similar fears to an Argentinian child than to my brother. Of course, I have more emotional ties to those closest to me but this does not mean that I do not have any bond to those farthest away. Although ‘their’ lives may seem disconnected from ‘ours’, we are in fact inextricably linked.

If we can write, speak, read and hear narratives of suffering in the knowledge that they are framed to begin at a certain point, that they necessarily exclude certain aspects and, in the case of pro-Israel/pro-Palestinian narratives, often have the express intention of dehumanising the Other, then we can seek what is not told. We can recognise when someone is being dehumanised and the radical dangers of believing someone to be less-than-human. Jews have experienced the extreme results of a dehumanising discourse in recent history. Palestinians are experiencing it now.



[1] The real amount is almost impossible to know as settlement products are often mixed with products from Israeli proper so that the labelling does not show the consumer where the product was actually made/grown. It is estimated that exports to the EU in 2004 either partly or wholly from Israeli settlements were worth around US$2 billion. Jan Willem van Gelder Hassel Kroes, “Economic links with Israeli Settlements in Occupied Palestinian Territories,” (A research paper prepared for the Sir Joseph Hotung Programme for Law, Human Rights and Peace Building in the Middle East, School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London, February 10, 2009), accessed April 15, 2012,  http://www.bricup.org.uk/documents/UKcompaniesAndIsraeliSettlements.pdf .
[2] Ahmed, Halah’s nephew told me how the family were put under 24 hour curfew for a month during the 2nd intifada, he said: ‘it was like we were in jail except the jail was your house. We couldn’t even open a window.’ Interviewed January 25, 2012, West Bank,.
[3] Halah’s brother, Hani was arrested to put pressure on the family to sell. Although he was released a year later, a condition of his bail was that he could not go back to University to study accounting and so now sells coffee on the street which brings in very little income. Interview with Halah, January 25, 2012 n the West Bank.
[4] In 1929, 67 Jews were massacred in Hebron by a Palestinian mob. Though hundreds more were kept safe by their Arab neighbours.
[5] Ibid.
[6] ButlerPrecarious Life, Chapter 1.



Saturday, 22 February 2014

Unsettling Settlements

Static caravans. The most unassuming of accommodations. Typically used by holidaying families who want a trip to the great outdoors while also being able to remain in constant control of exactly how much outdoors will be involved.

As always here in the Holy Land, this norm does not apply: Israel manages to turn even these usually unambitious apparati into yet another weapon of colonialism.

Palestinian hilltops are bulldozed and flattened, after which immobile metal trailers are placed in various defensive formations...



... (many more recent outposts are made up of trailers placed in a circle).

Large Israeli flags are raised – a classic custom of colonisers (those who actually own the land tend not to feel the need of making this assertion by sticking a big flag in it).

Long, black electricity wires link these ‘outposts’ with the nearest settlement so that residents can enjoy air conditioning in the summer and central heating in winter (a luxury few Palestinians can afford or get access to). [ Israel's Policy in Area C ]. This enables yet more excuses for harassment and confiscation of land as Palestinians are not allowed to be in the ‘vicinity’ of Israeli electric cables [ See: Israeli Military Order 378, Section 53(A)4 ].  (I recently heard a fellow bus-rider bemoaning that 'vicinity' was generally read by the Israeli military as meaning 30 metres either side of the cables).

Palestinians who attempt to farm their land in the surrounding areas of these obstinate new arrivals are at best stoned [ Israeli settlers stoning Palestinians ], and at worst shot at  [ Israeli settlers shooting at Palestinians ]. Often this is done with the presence (and protection of) the Israeli army (see links above and below).

If Palestinians are not forthcoming in offering themselves as target practice, groups of Israeli settlers will often leave their fortified enclave in order to beat and/or shoot at Palestinians who are unfortunate enough to own the land they are attempting to steal. If no person can be found to harass, they will settle (haha) for setting fire to olive trees, grape vines and any other vegetation the local Palestinians are attempting to cultivate. [ Israeli settler families, Head of Kiryat Arba (settlement) Council and Israeli police uprooting Palestinian vegetables and insisting that the owners of the land are 'Muslim, not human'.] 

Even Palestinian sheep aren’t safe. [ Poor sheep ] According to the Israeli government, this is how Israel makes the ‘desert bloom’ thereby saving the Holy Land from the useless Palestinians who apparently let the land go to waste. [ George, A. "Making the Desert Bloom" ]

The static caravans are progressively supplanted with brick bungalows which are then replaced with large apartment blocks. Surrounding fences and defences are fortified (with the help of SBM's 'settlement perimeter protection system'), roads are tarmaced and VOILA – another Israeli ‘settlement’ is established.

The clusters of tall, bright-white, red-roofed buildings protrude from the hillsides like festering, pus-filled sores. (Sorry, but its true... LOOK: ... )



They stand in stark contrast to Palestinian houses and villages which dot the hillsides, surrounded by family or community-owned lands which the historically agrarian Palestinians have cultivated for millennia. Which seem to have grown out of the very earth itself.



Strategically, this makes them much harder to defend in the event of attack. Presumably, this was not a consideration at the time.

As I drive back from work past the expanding settlements of Efrat and Gush Etzion, they begin to blink bright, sporadic, burnt umber lights; the setting sun reflected in their windows. For a moment, they look beautiful. For a moment, they look like they are on fire.


Friday, 7 February 2014

Seatbelts of freedom

Absurdities rule the roost here in the Holy Land. I guess it’s not surprising.

Hopping onto a public-run minibus in a Palestinian area does not come with an automatic clicking of seatbelts. We ride freely. 

Israeli roads cut through Palestinian land, connecting Israeli settlements with each other and the Israeli mainland. They have their own laws: Israeli laws. One must wear a seatbelt. Large fines and excuses for harassment lie in wait. Palestinian run areas - signified with large red ‘warning’ signs - have no such law. As the junction to the Israeli-run road approaches, we reach for our belts. *clickclickclickclick*.

Suddenly, I feel restricted. Unable to breathe. I know logically, reasonably, actually, belts are good. They make us safer. But here, between the ancient, terraced hills; amongst the grape vines and olive trees, it is yet another reminder of the foreign power forcing its will upon us. We pass tall, austere concrete watchtowers surrounded by large cement blocks and barbed wire, CCTV cameras pointing in all directions. Large Israeli flags wave at us victoriously. On the hill tops, Israeli settler apartment blocks cluster defensively together as if they know their annexation will be assailed. White immobile trailers continue the trajectory of the colony down the hill. Staking their claim to more privately-owned Palestinian land. They crowd in on us. Stifling. Constricting. Enraging.

The power dynamic is clear. We have none. So we search for freedom in little things. In ways you may think non-sensical. But in this land of the absurd, non-sense seems the only sensible way to go. 

As we finally come off the Israeli road, past the big red signs. *clickclickclickclick*. We free ourselves.