Saturday 22 February 2014

Unsettling Settlements

Static caravans. The most unassuming of accommodations. Typically used by holidaying families who want a trip to the great outdoors while also being able to remain in constant control of exactly how much outdoors will be involved.

As always here in the Holy Land, this norm does not apply: Israel manages to turn even these usually unambitious apparati into yet another weapon of colonialism.

Palestinian hilltops are bulldozed and flattened, after which immobile metal trailers are placed in various defensive formations...



... (many more recent outposts are made up of trailers placed in a circle).

Large Israeli flags are raised – a classic custom of colonisers (those who actually own the land tend not to feel the need of making this assertion by sticking a big flag in it).

Long, black electricity wires link these ‘outposts’ with the nearest settlement so that residents can enjoy air conditioning in the summer and central heating in winter (a luxury few Palestinians can afford or get access to). [ Israel's Policy in Area C ]. This enables yet more excuses for harassment and confiscation of land as Palestinians are not allowed to be in the ‘vicinity’ of Israeli electric cables [ See: Israeli Military Order 378, Section 53(A)4 ].  (I recently heard a fellow bus-rider bemoaning that 'vicinity' was generally read by the Israeli military as meaning 30 metres either side of the cables).

Palestinians who attempt to farm their land in the surrounding areas of these obstinate new arrivals are at best stoned [ Israeli settlers stoning Palestinians ], and at worst shot at  [ Israeli settlers shooting at Palestinians ]. Often this is done with the presence (and protection of) the Israeli army (see links above and below).

If Palestinians are not forthcoming in offering themselves as target practice, groups of Israeli settlers will often leave their fortified enclave in order to beat and/or shoot at Palestinians who are unfortunate enough to own the land they are attempting to steal. If no person can be found to harass, they will settle (haha) for setting fire to olive trees, grape vines and any other vegetation the local Palestinians are attempting to cultivate. [ Israeli settler families, Head of Kiryat Arba (settlement) Council and Israeli police uprooting Palestinian vegetables and insisting that the owners of the land are 'Muslim, not human'.] 

Even Palestinian sheep aren’t safe. [ Poor sheep ] According to the Israeli government, this is how Israel makes the ‘desert bloom’ thereby saving the Holy Land from the useless Palestinians who apparently let the land go to waste. [ George, A. "Making the Desert Bloom" ]

The static caravans are progressively supplanted with brick bungalows which are then replaced with large apartment blocks. Surrounding fences and defences are fortified (with the help of SBM's 'settlement perimeter protection system'), roads are tarmaced and VOILA – another Israeli ‘settlement’ is established.

The clusters of tall, bright-white, red-roofed buildings protrude from the hillsides like festering, pus-filled sores. (Sorry, but its true... LOOK: ... )



They stand in stark contrast to Palestinian houses and villages which dot the hillsides, surrounded by family or community-owned lands which the historically agrarian Palestinians have cultivated for millennia. Which seem to have grown out of the very earth itself.



Strategically, this makes them much harder to defend in the event of attack. Presumably, this was not a consideration at the time.

As I drive back from work past the expanding settlements of Efrat and Gush Etzion, they begin to blink bright, sporadic, burnt umber lights; the setting sun reflected in their windows. For a moment, they look beautiful. For a moment, they look like they are on fire.


Friday 7 February 2014

Seatbelts of freedom

Absurdities rule the roost here in the Holy Land. I guess it’s not surprising.

Hopping onto a public-run minibus in a Palestinian area does not come with an automatic clicking of seatbelts. We ride freely. 

Israeli roads cut through Palestinian land, connecting Israeli settlements with each other and the Israeli mainland. They have their own laws: Israeli laws. One must wear a seatbelt. Large fines and excuses for harassment lie in wait. Palestinian run areas - signified with large red ‘warning’ signs - have no such law. As the junction to the Israeli-run road approaches, we reach for our belts. *clickclickclickclick*.

Suddenly, I feel restricted. Unable to breathe. I know logically, reasonably, actually, belts are good. They make us safer. But here, between the ancient, terraced hills; amongst the grape vines and olive trees, it is yet another reminder of the foreign power forcing its will upon us. We pass tall, austere concrete watchtowers surrounded by large cement blocks and barbed wire, CCTV cameras pointing in all directions. Large Israeli flags wave at us victoriously. On the hill tops, Israeli settler apartment blocks cluster defensively together as if they know their annexation will be assailed. White immobile trailers continue the trajectory of the colony down the hill. Staking their claim to more privately-owned Palestinian land. They crowd in on us. Stifling. Constricting. Enraging.

The power dynamic is clear. We have none. So we search for freedom in little things. In ways you may think non-sensical. But in this land of the absurd, non-sense seems the only sensible way to go. 

As we finally come off the Israeli road, past the big red signs. *clickclickclickclick*. We free ourselves.